I had never intended to write anything up regarding my trip back to England this Christmas, but as my good friend Louise has told me she is awaiting reading material I guess I should deliver something. It was an assault upon the brain and body, but also a journey well worth making - the most that Fran and I were apart for the entire 2 weeks was a couple of hours at my parents’ where he worked and I chatted. For now, here’s some idle scribble used to pass 1 of the 8 hours I had to spend in Bangkok on my way to London. More may follow, it may not. It depends if the cocktail of jetlag and festive residue kill me first.
’So the transition has commenced. I never anticipated it feeling quite so transitory, as having been away only 5 months and with gaijin most weekends, planting myself back into western culture didn’t seem that big a deal. Which it isn’t…yet.
As I sit here trying to pass the first of 8 hours at Bangkok International Airport, supping on an ice-cold Heineken and nibbling on a nice warm sausage roll, the grace and reserve of Japan is already beginning to come in to focus.
Airports are strange places at the best of times. Overheated and synthetic, the concoction of coffee, perfume and plastic is at first a rather exciting aroma, until it gets replaced by the smell of frustration and farts. Right now, however, Bangkok is as airy as airports get, and is providing me with the perfect opportunity to get all the staring at people who are Not Japanese out of the way before ending up looking like a real weirdo in London.
I always understood logically why the Japanese stare so much. As gaijins in Yamaguchi, we look very different and there are very few of us. I’d stare at a leopard if I saw one in Belper. Or Manchester for that matter. But lordy, we are an odd-looking bunch, and I must confess some of us do veer on the side of monstrous in appearance (I think particularly here of the more-than-portly Australians I have just sympathised with on the beer-hunt - for some reason there is a limited supply of liquor in Thailand on election day). A particularly non-monstrous family has just wandered by, however, and the baby’s sky-blue eyes remind me of why so many Japanese people think we’re ‘cute’.
Looking at all these care-free and sunkissed youths reminds me of Sri Lanka, while I sit here looking pasty in my varyingly earnest shades of charcoal, having ditched the rollneck (also charcoal) and the legwarmers when I realised how close the the equator we actually are. Now there’s some bonkers tenses. So many of these people look so young, and while most of them are probably around the 19 mark and thus only a few years my junior, I feel like they have so much to live through before they get to the sage-like figure of 23. I have no doubt, either, that Japan has aged me. Not in these sense that it has made me any wiser, but that it has exposed me to things which call into question the excited ideals of young adulthood.
Japan’s also exposed me, in no uncertain terms, to Better Ways of Living. I use the plural because the Japanese have not mastered a singularly ‘better’ way of living, however you measure quality of life. But the breed of collectivist psychology that exists there, at least in my brief experience of it, has shown me just how much people can achieve when it is necessary for them to plough all their energies into any task they undertake for the sake of the group. It doesn’t denigrate the accomplishments of the individual. If anything, it heightens them, and I think I’ve seen that from the students’ performance at sports’ festival to even doing karaoke with the staff. Individual fear of embarrassment = not singing. But doing it to keep the party alive for everyone else means practice, which puts the Japanese much more firmly on the road to perfect.
Isn’t it interesting that having inwardly bemoaned the Japanese superiority complex for some time now, I feel I am somehow superior to all the outwardly generic backpackers here by being the Girl Who Lives in Japan. Now there’s a mind-bend I wasn’t expecting! I could do with Kieran to talk to right now.
Thai sounds like Jamaican Chinese. Another adorable blue-eyed child. Why do the caucasians age so?
20 hours and I’m back with Fran. That shouldn’t seem so long, should it? I’ve more to say on that, but it’s time for me to pop for a wee and to sniff out another place that’ll serve me beer.’